Atlas mountain range, according to Antique mythology, holds up the sky. On the slopes and in the valleys Berber villages are hidden in the colours of rock. Singing comes from there and children are greeting you from the windows and rooftops calling Bon jour!
Terraced gardens, ploughed by donkeys, and a shepherd with sheep in the shadow of a tree.
Beside the road groups of children are sitting, chatting and playing. Snowy mountain peaks glitter in the sun behind them.
Women are coming back from the fields following water channels.
Atlas, gorovje, ki po izročilu antične mitologije podpira nebo. Po pobočjih in dolinah se z barvo kamnine zlivajo rdečkaste Berberske vasi. Od koder prihaja petje in te otroci pozdravljajo izza oken in s streh Bon jour! Terasasti vrtovi, preorani z osli, in pastir z ovcami v senci dreves. Na cestnih ovinkih posedajo gruče otrok, se igrajo in klepetajo. Zasneženi vrhovi nad njimi se bleščijo v soncu. Med vasmi so speljani vodni kanali, ženske se med njimi vračajo s polj.
In this idyllic mountain environment, on the way from Imlil village to the highest mountain Jebel Toubkal (4167 m), a brutal murder of two Scandinavian girls happened in December and shook public. We got the first news about it from Europe in the form of warnings of our worried fathers. Moroccans around us were shocked, emphasizing their disagreement with religious radicalism and describing event as inhuman.
V tem idiličnem gorskem okolju, na poti iz vasi Imlil na najvišji vrh Jebel Toubkal, se je decembra zgodil strašen umor dveh deklet iz Skandinavije, ki je pretresel javnost. Prve vesti o tem so prišle do nas iz Evrope v obliki svaril zaskrbljenih očetov. Maročani, s katerimi sem bil v stiku, so bili šokirani nad dogodkom, poudarili so svoje nestrinjanje z verskim radikalizmom in dogodek označili kot nečloveški.
Criminal act came crumbling in my thoughts as a shadow on each of my Atlas journeys. I met two women at the stream and one started to show with her hand along her neck saying bum bum that it is dangerous to continue walking my way. In the Zat valley a local stopped us and gave us his phone. While trying to communicate in French with somebody on the phone we realised, he was worried about us. After ensuring we won’t sleep there, he was calmed.
The highlight of protecting behaviour happened at the returning in the same valley; policemen were waiting for us at our car. After a long conversation and explaining our plans they wanted to take a photo with us. And friendly invited us for a tea. Did locals call them?
Dejanje, ki se je ob vsakem mojem obisku Atlasa prikradlo v misli kot senca. Ob potoku sem srečal ženski in ena je začela kazati z roko prek vratu v smislu, da je smrtno nevarno hoditi naprej. V dolini Zat nas je ustavil domačin in v francoščini smo prek njegovega telefona ugotovili, da ga skrbi za nas. Po zagotovilu, da ne bomo prespali, je bil pomirjen. Višek zaščitniškega vedenja je bil na povratku v isti dolini, ko so nas ob avtomobilu pričakali policisti. Po izčrpnem pogovoru in ko smo jih pomirili s svojimi načrti, so se želeli fotografirati z nami. In nas prijazno povabili na čaj. Jih je poklical kdo od domačinov?
Imad, the keeper of animals and gardens at Dar Slimane, invited us to have bath in his home hammam and to go for a trip to village Tighdouine, where mineral water springs out.
Exploring hidden paths through the muddy villages surprise you with running chicken or drying carpets at one point or with a ceramicist half dug in the ground at another.
Imad, skrbnik za živali in vrtove v Dar Slimane, nas je povabil na kopel v domači hammam in na izlet v vas Tighdouine, kjer izvira mineralna voda. Potikanje po skritih prehodih blatnih vasi te preseneti zdaj s kokošjo, zdaj s sušečimi se preprogami ali lončarjem, do pasu vkopanim v tla.
In the heart of Atlas 2600 m above the sea level is a ski resort Oukaimdan. When I step out of the car three Moroccans in colourful skiing costumes with a mule on the lane surround me. Do I want to ride up there behind the edge? And ski downhill? The offer makes me laugh to tears but in the absence of snow we decide rather to go hiking.
V osrčju Atlasa na višini 2600 m se nahaja smučišče Oukaimden. Ko stopim iz avta, me obstopijo trije domačini v barvitih kombinezonih z mulo na povodcu. Želim odjahati tja gor za rob? In smučati dol? Ponudba me nasmeji do solz, a v pomanjkanju snega se raje odločiva za hojo.
In the Middle Atlas world is green. I adore magnificent cedar forests, where you meet lumberjacks and their donkeys carrying wood. On the sunny clearing we see monkeys. When we come closer they escape on the trees, jump in the branches and curiously follow our moves. Just contrary to the monkeys at the parking where people feed them with peanuts. While Eva is walking and eating tangerine monkey approaches her and grabs her knee to make her scream.
V Srednjem Atlasu je svet bolj zelen. Občudujem mogočne cedre, pod katerimi srečaš drvarje, ki na oslih tovorijo drva. Na sončni jasi opaziva opice. Ko se jim približava, pobegnejo na drevesa, skačejo z veje na vejo in radovedno spremljajo najine premike. Prav nasprotno od opic na parkirišču, ki jih ljudje hranijo z arašidi. Medtem ko Eva med hojo jé mandarino, jo opica neustrašno zgrabi za koleno, da zakriči.
It is the last day at Dar Slimane. I am sitting on the rooftop looking towards the mountans in the sunset. I feel at home living under these snowy peaks.
Zadnji dan v Dar Slimane sedim na strehi in opazujem gore ob sončnem zahodu. Pod zasneženimi vrhovi se počutim domače.
Text: Uroš
Photo: Uroš & policeman