A map is in the backpack. Tomorrow? Ok.
Night in Granada awakens at midnight. Beer and sea tapas are digested slowly. In front of the bar at 2 a.m. we caress a soft sheep tied to a dog. Today? Tomorrow.
Zemljevid je v nahrbtniku. Jutri? Prav.
Noč v Granadi zaživi ob polnoči. Pivo in morske tapase le počasi prebavljaš. Ob 2h ponoči pred barom božamo mehko ovco, privezano ob psa. Danes? Jutri.
Coincidentally we meet a couple from Malaga in our home village. Under a palm tree on the terrace of the only bar we drink wine together and talk. Among the stars of a new day we leave towards our homes. Today? At sunrise.
Po naključju v domači vasi spoznava par iz Malage. Pod palmo na terasi edinega bara srkamo vino in klepetamo. Med zvezdami novega dne se odpravimo vsak v svoj dom. Danes? Ko se zdani.
From Trevelez, the highest permanently inhabited village in Spain (1476 m), we start our march into the heart of Sierra Nevada (‘Snowy Mountains‘). World is becoming wider with altitude, behind rare pine trees there are vast empty plains.
Iz Treveleza, najvišje stalno naseljene španske vasi (1476 m), jo opoldne mahneva v osrčje Sierre Nevade (‘Snežno gorovje‘). Svet se z višino odpira, za redkimi bori so širne gole planjave.
Passing a stony bivouac and a wide waterfall we reach Hondera lake (2917 m). This is a starting point for the highest mountains, among them Mulhacen (3479 m), the highest mountain in continental Spain. Few tents are already hidden among the rocks aside the lake.
Mimo kamnitega bivaka in širokega slapišča doseževa jezero Hondera (2917 m). To je izhodišče za najvišje vrhove, med drugim tudi za Mulhacen (3479 m), najvišji vrh celinske Španije. Zato po skalnih obronkih že vihra nekaj šotorov.
We put up our tent, eat lunch, by the way we feed un uninvited dog and head towards Alcazaba (3371 m), a mountain with more difficult access.
Postaviva šotor, pojeva kosilo, mimogrede nahraniva še nepovabljenega psa in se odpraviva proti Alcazabi (3371 m), na katero vodi zahtevnejši pristop.
Through the valley of seven lakes (Siete Lagunas) and over red rocks of a moonlike landscape we are ascending towards the top. For a richer experience Eva recommends listening to Dolmen music.
Po dolini sedmerih jezer (Siete Lagunas) in med rdečim skalovjem lunine pokrajine se vzpenjava proti vrhu. Eva za bogatejše doživljanje priporoča poslušanje Dolmen music.
From the top of Alcazaba you can see Mulhacen as it was in your hand. Sierra Nevada spreads out in all directions as a brown hilly desert. It is the first time Eva’s legs brought her so high. Evening light and solitude over the abyss make a glorious atmosphere.
Z vrha Alcazabe je videti Mulhacen kot na dlani, Sierra Nevada je razprostrta na vse strani kot rjava gorata puščava. Evo so noge prvič prinesle tako visoko. Večerna svetloba in samota nad prepadi pričarata veličastno vzdušje.
At nightfall we reach our tent again. We cook dinner in the dark while the wind is increasing. Besides we have troubles with a new gas cartridge. Frozen to the bones we finally crawl into our sleeping bags and eat. Wind is increasing. With food we get strenght to build a wall to stop the wind at least a little. It can’t blow away the stars.
V mraku doseževa šotor. Kuhanje večerje poteka v temi in ob naraščajočem vetru, poleg tega imava težavo z nepreizkušeno plinsko kartušo. Prezebla do kosti se končno zavijeva v spalke in jeva. Veter narašča. S hrano se vrne moč in iz kamnov zgradiva zidek, ki veter vsaj malo ustavi. Zvezd ne odpihne.
Do you sleep? No, what about you? Wind is striking the tent … At 5 a.m. Eva shows me a hole in the ceiling of the tent. It cracked some time ago, a stick broke through the tilt. Wind stops for a moment, meanwhile, lying with eyes closed becomes pleasant, but then it bursts even strongly, tent is fluttering wildly. It blows from all directions. Are you cold? No, what about you? Like this we wait for sunrise and fell asleep.
Spiš? Ne, kaj pa ti? Veter buta ob šotor … Ob 5h zjutraj mi Eva pokaže luknjo v stropu šotora. Menda je počilo že zdavnaj, palica je predrla ponjavo. Veter se za trenutek ustavi, toliko da mižanje postane prijetno, in že udari še siloviteje, šotorsko krilo divje vihra sem in tja. Piha iz vseh smeri. Te zebe? Ne, pa tebe? Tako čakava sončni vzhod in zadremava.
Planned ascend to Mulhacen won’t happen today. Mountain is hidden in the clouds and the wind overthrows us on the ground. Things from the entrance room of the tent were blown 100 m away but luckily we find everything. Quickly we leave towards the valley, passing a herd of ibex we dive into the fog. Suddenly a hard rain starts to fall and at once we are totally wet, having a flood in the shoes. Because it gets very cold we almost run. In Trevelez water dikes on the streets are changed into waterfalls and our car is parked in the middle of a big puddle. We put on improvised dry clothes (I’m wearing a blanket), put on heating and drive into a storm. New streams are crossing the road and it seems as the water is pouring from every slot of the world.
Načrtovani vzpon na Mulhacen odpade. Vrh je zavit v oblake, veter naju prevrne po tleh. Iz predprostora nama je razpihalo stvari 100 m daleč, a na srečo najdeva vse. Hitro jo popihava proti dolini, mimo črede kozorogov in v meglo. Tedaj se ulije dež in takoj sva mokra kot miši, s poplavo v čevljih. Ker postane izredno hladno, skoraj tečeva. V Trevelezu so se odtočni jarki na ulicah spremenili v razpenjene slapove, avto pa stoji sredi velike luže. Nadeneva improvizirana suha oblačila (oblečem npr. odejo), prižgeva gretje in zapeljeva v naliv. Cesto sekajo novonastali potoki in zdi se, da voda dere iz vseh rež sveta.
Soon we reach an immovable column of cars. The road is blocked by the landslide! People stroll aside the road curiously. After some time a dredger arrives. But the uncomfort becomes unbearable, we turn into the closest (witchy) village Soportujar and with the blanket on I go as a civilised man towards the toilet.
Kmalu se znajdeva v nepremični koloni avtomobilov. Cesto je zasul zemeljski plaz! Ljudje se sprehajajo ob cesti in pasejo radovednost. Čez čas vendar pripelje bager. A nelagodje je preveliko, obrneva v najbližjo (čarovniško) vas Soportujar in v odeji se odpravim kulturno proti stranišču.
Useful links for planing your hikes in Sierra Nevada:
Uporabne povezave za načrtovanje izletov v Sierri Nevadi:
- Trek Sierra Nevada
- Current circumstances in Sierra Nevada/Trenutne razmere
- Weather forecast/Vremenska napoved
- Camping regulation in Sierra Nevada/Pravila kampiranja
Text: Uroš
Photo: Eva & Uroš